Tara´s Entry

Joan is so Dominican…

It isn’t that hard really. By the end of 10 days, even I was picking up habits.
Top 6 reasons Joan is so Dominican:

1. She feeds her cat people food. This one was a dilemma for her: I was telling her she was weird for feeding her cat EVERYTHING that she ate and the people of her village told her she was weird for buying cat food. What is one to do? (see picture) 2. She speaks with their accent. Even if you know Spanish you can’t understand what they are saying.
3. She goes to meetings late. And I mean late, like ½ hour to an hour. Basically time means nothing to Dominicans.
4. She got her toes professionally done, pink with floral designs… to match her dress.
5. She no longer craves chocolate after every meal and lives without cereal.
6. She can dance!!

But, I make better tostones. (Below, Joan and Richard making "tostones", or fried plantain)Pretty much it takes forever to do everything. At times it made me feel a little impatient but I was on vacation so I tried to enjoy every minute of it, knowing I was heading back to my reality in too short of time.

The bigger cities, like Santo Domingo and Nagua, I didn’t like so much. Nagua is the city close to her town. If you read any travel guides for the DR, they will tell you not to go there. The cities were full of stray dogs, cars, scooters, and litter. Joan’s town had all the same but the stray dogs looked healthy, the cars were almost non-existent, the scooters were fun, and I got used to the litter. Except for the moment Joan threw a straw wrapper on the ground! My heart almost stopped.

(A view from Las Terrenas)

The beaches were so pretty and the water was so warm. We went to two that were touristy – Puerto Plata and Las Terrenas, and the one by her village. All beautiful. One of my favorite things of the trip was the fruit. I ate more mangos and pineapple than I have in my lifetime. And the fresh juice was so good. The people were also really nice. The first thing everyone says when you meet them is “this is my house, if you need anything…” One of her neighbors, Nina, cooked us many meals and was so proud that we liked them. We then made them brownies. This is real treat because they don’t have ovens.

(Tara with Richard)

We were involved in two fender benders. The first- we were on an overcrowded guagua on our way to Puerto Plata. As we made out way through a congested area our driver hit the car in front of us and took off. The second- we were in a Peace Corps truck and were rear-ended in Santo Domingo. The divers traded info this time. No one was hurt. I actually think it’s quite comical and surprised it doesn’t happen more often. Traffic laws there are merely suggestions. I have to say though, I didn’t usually feel nervous, and I am a nervous passenger; they know what they’re doing… or at least look like they do.

I was sad to leave. (Although, I did get a marriage proposal at the airport from one of the security guards and contemplated it for a moment. He was hot, but I know better.) As I was getting on the plane to go home the stewardess made a remark that everyone getting off the plane was smiling and everyone getting on looked so unhappy. I guess we were all sad to leave.

Tara

Getting Down to Business

It was a dark, stormy night. Thunder roared as a warm, suspicious breeze swept along the town and invited nocturnal creatures out from their murky depths. The creatures heard the call and heard the thunder and emerged, making their way out from the river bed, across the dirt paths and to my front patio. I heard a motorcycle in front of my house at 11:00 that night, keeping my headlamp hidden so they would think I was not home, not realizing they were there for a different purpose. As I woke the next morning and started making my way down the street, the Doñas were beginning to prepare lunch for their families, and I received my invitation.

“Juana, ven a comer almuerzo aquí, tenemos cangrejo hoy!” “Juana, come here to eat lunch today, we’re having crab!”

Lots of rain had gathered up all of the crabs, and the thunder scared them out of their riverbeds. This week was like crab week in my town, the crabs were running wild and the people went out late at night with their flashlights to round them up for lunch the next day. Being along the ocean, (in fact, below sea level), you often get some interesting sights. I have found crabs in my bedroom on two occasions. Shrimp can be seen paddling their way through the puddles that collect in the empty plots of land. Even in the dirt roads, pieces of coral are mixed in with the rocks and stones.

José Miguel showed me some of the crabs his father found, as they picked off the legs from the still-living creatures and threw them in the cooking pot. With a little work and dedication, they can be pretty fun to eat, sucking the meat out of the legs like a straw. I may have even eaten the crab that made it to my front porch!

Speaking of creatures in my bedroom, I now have a cat! He takes care of all of the other unwanted creatures in my house, often to my dismay. I´m used to my cats in the states finding a mouse or a bird, severely injuring it, then batting it around, never actually sure what that primordial instinct was trying to tell them to do with it. The Dominican cats are different. They go for the kill, and then go for the meal. I witnessed my cat tossing around a freshly killed mouse, and before I had time to spit out my toothpaste, I heard the bones crunching and was too late to stop him from eating the mouse in its entirety – tail, fur, and head included. I didn´t let him sleep with me that night. He also kills and eats frogs, lizards, cockroaches, and giant spiders, among other things I´m sure, but have not had the misfortune to witness.
Though he´s still really cute and full of spastic kitten energy. He loves his mum and is with me wherever I go in the house. At night he sleeps with me, though rather than in my bed he actually sleeps ON TOP of the mosquito net, like it’s a hammock! His name is Moreno, a popular nickname here meaning “dark-skinned”, which is just so taboo in the states that I decided to take advantage of the opportunity to use a name like this and thought it a interesting play on the cultures. Also, when I got the cat, it had been one year since I had visited the Moreno Glacier in Patagonia, Argentina. Remember those photos???

Last weekend was the inauguration of the new town hall building in my town. They have a mayor, or “Sindico”, but they had just been working out of a rented house. Now they have a beautiful new space in the most modern building in town! I got all dressed up for the special occasion in a pink dress I borrowed from a friend. It was a nice treat, how often do you have the opportunity to get all decked out in dresses and jewelry?! Here is a photo of myself with the Sindico:This is my friend Richard with two friends and neighbors, sisters Clara and Deisy:

More pictures from the inauguration:Things have really picked up lately on the work front. Lots of planning and research are finally starting to take shape into more tangible projects. I’ve got a youth group now, which I hope to be a fun outlet for the youth where they can do activities as well as educational things to keep them off the streets and more educated about the decisions they make. Sexual education is virtually non-existent amongst Dominicans and therefore teenage pregnancy is a big problem, which for kids here simultaneously means marriage and starting a family. I’ll educate them in this area and about AIDS, STDs, etc. My goal is that not one of my youth gets pregnant nor gets someone pregnant unintentionally during my time here! It seems a little silly but its and honest-to-goodness goal, and I honestly don’t know how hard it will be!

I’ve also got an after school program, a “Sala de Tarea” (homework room) which I’m taking under my wing to help maintain because no one else wants to do it! Its very important as it is the only other option outside of the school where kids can get help with their schoolwork. Many kids who have learning disabilities do not otherwise have focused attention to help them learn, so if they don’t understand the way they teach in the classroom they may get discouraged and not continue with school (a common problem). The Sala was started with funds from a local community organization, and since the funds ran out in January we have been barely hanging on by a thread! I’ve been doing some small-scale fundraising activities this month (making and selling household cleaning soap from scratch, as well as a “Jeans day” at the school where they can pay to wear jeans instead of their uniforms), and both have been pretty successful. Meanwhile, we have a small committee of people who are working to come up with a more regular method of sustainability. Here are some of the kids waving from the morning session: Also on the agenda is a campaign to get people registered who do not have their birth certificates. I started the weekly meetings in my community two weeks ago, and there are a lot of people who want to be involved! It is a big problem and there are many people without birth certificates, so I’m hoping we can help at least some of them get registered.

We’re applying for funds as well for my community organization to finish the construction of their new building. As of now they don’t have a place to meet, and when this is finished (its still got a ways to go) they’ll have not only their own location, but a space for English and computer classes, as well as for other community and youth groups to meet.

And there are more ideas and plans in the works! Of course, as you know I am also working to help organize the girl’s camp, Camp GLOW in July. I will be selecting the girls who will accompany me this week, they have filled out applications and I will select the two that I believe would benefit most or could give back the most to the community from their experience. Thank you so much to all who donated, together we raised $540!

May I also add that you are all reading the blog of the new EDITOR of the Peace Corps DR magazine! I was asked to take over as the past editor has just finished his service. I’m very excited about it, I love working on the magazine and know it is such a great outlet for the volunteers here! They can read stories from other volunteers amongst humorous plays on the culture of the DR, the US, or the Peace Corps in general! Since I’ve still got a year and a half to go, I’ll be able to do about five issues.

My friend Tara is here visiting right now for ten days! She’s already developed a love for plantains, has learned how to dance Merengue and Bachata, and learned not to trust Dominican men. I’ll have her write about her impressions soon.

Thanks!
Joan

Marc's Impressions

It has now been about 3 weeks since I have come back from the Dominican and in lieu of payment for staying at Joan's house I will be doing a blog entry.

Arrival was a bit shaky since my luggage was not on the plane and I didn't get it until 3 days later (luckily they dropped it off at Joan's house). So there wasn't the cheesy greeting of us seeing each other and running into a big hug, it was more like me turning the corner with a pissed off look on my face and Joanie knowing that something happened. But it all worked out in the end.

The first night we stayed in Santo Domingo at a youth hostel near the Peace Corps headquarters. The first order of business was to get me some clothes. I bought a shirt and some underwear, just the essentials. The brand name of the underwear was "Sexyman" so I knew I had to get that one. We then did a good amount of walking around the city and grabbed a bite to eat at a restaurant. I had some really good shrimp and rice with the Dominican beer of choice, Presidente. Then took a cab back to the hostel and called it a night.

The next day we were still trying to figure out the luggage situation, but we weren't having much luck since it was Easter Sunday and it seemed like basically no one was working. Since we couldn't get through we decided to go to the supermarket for some food. Along the way I noticed that the streets were real dirty (her site isn't nearly as bad) and there were huge holes in the middle of the sidewalk that seemed to go down six feet and were mostly filled with trash. I was being very careful walking around these but Joan hardly seemed to notice and just kind of walked around them while still talking to me. Definitely something that she has gotten used to.

Since we were in the city she wanted to take advantage of the Chinese restaurant since there isn't anything like it near her site. It was probably the sweetest Chinese food I have had but still pretty good, it just seemed odd seeing a bunch of Dominicans cooking 'Chinese food'. Then we were off to her site for the 4 hour bus ride.

Along the way is a really cool looking tree that Joan made sure to point out.

Then we were at her site and I met her friend Reylandi while we were walking to her house. It was raining pretty heavily so not many people were out we went over to meet one of her neighbors who made us some unbelievable cherry juice. I was shocked to see that the kids in the house were playing a PS2, definitely not something I was expecting.

The heavy rain on the tin roof was very loud yet also peaceful that first night in her house.

I then got the chance to visit the beach in her town. It was only a 5-10 minute walk when it was just Joan and I but the times we had a Dominican with us they turned it into a 20-25 minute walk. I guess they just aren't in the same rush as we were. The Dominican part of the beach was very nice and the white object you can see in the water is an over turned refrigerator/boat.

Later that night we went to a big dance a little down the beach and had a little bit to drink. It was a blast with everyone dancing and listening to the music. We had some rum with coconut water, which was surprisingly good. I normally don't like rum too much but it was a very good mix and the coconuts were coming down straight from the trees around us!


The next few days I just sort of followed Joan around the town as she did her normal day to day business. Basically walk around and talk to people. This was a little difficult for me since I can barely say anything outside of "Hola" and "Si", although I picked up on a little bit as the week went on.

Everyone in the town was incredibly nice and clearly like Joanie. One of the old men said (through Joan's translation of course), "The world loves Joan".

Also throughout the week I quickly learned about all of the 'other things' that live in peoples houses down there. Back home if Joanie saw any sort of bug, especially spiders, she would scream. Here it is a completely different story, most of the times she would kill the bug before I even knew it was there.



Here you can see the victim, the assailant and the weapon. Luckily I only saw two cockroaches during the week and this was one of them.




There were other creatures that were harmless and good to have around since they would eat some of the other bugs like mosquitoes.





At first when I got there I wondered why none of the Dominicans wore shorts even though it was 80+ and humid every day I was there, but after walking around in shorts for two days and counting 52 bug bites on my left leg alone it suddenly made sense to me and I tried wearing pants more for the rest of the week.

After walking around the town for a few days we went to a touristy town a few hours away. It was interesting getting there and back. We had to take Gua-Guas, which is basically just a truck or a van that drives a certain route. The thing is, they will fit as many people in the vehicles as they possibly can. On the way back we were in the equivalent of a Volkswagen Van and there were 19 people including the driver in the van. The route we were on was also a very steep mountain path, so I was a bit nervous for a bit.

Transportation aside, it was well worth the trip. The beaches were amazing.











There was a rope swing hanging from one of the palm trees that Joanie had to take advantage of.










I also happened to be there for her birthday, Friday the 13th!!! Normally Dominicans don't really do much for birthdays, apparently they don't even like to have them regardless of their age but they did get a cake for Joanie and we went out.

We went to the club near her house, the gave us free rum and cokes when we got in there. There was our group and another group in there so we left, but they told us to take the free drinks with us so we took our drinks into the cab to go to another bar in the town nearby and we walked into the bar with our own drinks from the previous bar without any problem. I just couldn't stop thinking about how there was absolutely no way that could ever happen in the states.

We went to a few places and had a blast, at one of the bars they made an announcement that for the next 2 minutes every beer was 1 peso. The exchange rate is about 33 pesos= $1, so that is about a 3 cent beer. Oh ya.

That was my last night and we left early in the morning to take the long bus ride to the airport and time for me to go home. I had a blast and cant wait to go back again, hopefully they will have the new highway finished so it will cut the bus ride from the airport from 3.5-4 hours to about 1.5 hours.

Joan´s Brother,
Marc

Friends and My Presentation

I´ve let a lot of time go by since my last blog entry. I figure you probably see it one of two ways:

1. Joan is settling in nicely and therefore doesn´t feel the need to vent all of her frustrations to us through her blog.
2. Joan was suspected to be in the CIA and has been held in federal detention since the beginning of March.

Well, if you guessed number 1, you are correct. Things have been going very well lately. I´ve settled into my community and am really liking it here. I´ve made friends and have had an eventful past two months. There were Patron Saints celebrations and Holy Week at the beach, and best of all, my brother came to visit! Marc came for a full week in April, taking a break from the cold by spending time with “big sis” at my site. He got to see how I live and made a few impressions of his own. (He´ll be posting his own blog entry here soon, I´ll let him tell you about it.)

Meanwhile, my adjustment has really been helped by some special friendships I have made here. First is Reylandi, whom I have mentioned, a great friend and neighbor who is smart, cool, active, motivated, and just plain hot stuff. I also have some really great neighbors who are always looking out for me (and feeding me) and making me feel like I am home.

Then there is Frank. I am being truthful when I say that he will marry me some day. You see, Frank is studying to be a Catholic priest. I´ve asked him why as well, but he just really enjoys what he does, and seeing him in action I know he´ll make a great priest some day. Frank was the first person here (Domincan) with whom I really felt a connection. It is not always easy to relate to people who come from different cultures, especially when you have such a sarcastic sense of humor, like I do. I hadn´t been laughing, as in really laughing, until I met Frank in January. And it figures that when we met we were at a funeral, and we laughed all the way through (oops!). Since then we have been great friends, and though Frank doesn´t actually live here (he lives at a seminary school in Santo Domingo), I see him during holidays. Soon he will be doing some priestly tradition where they have to live in practical solitary confinement for a year! He won´t be able to come visit :´( , but I can stop by any time I am in Santiago. Here is a picture of myself with Reylandi and Frank under a full moon night at the beach:

During Holy Week ("Semana Santa", the week before Easter), everyone has the week off from school and most of the week from work, and by tradition they go to the beach. So, my town became flooded with extended family and friends-of-friends all headed to the coast. There are many people from my town who live here year-round but don´t cross the highway all year to go to the beach until the week of Semana Santa. It seems a little ridiculous, and when I first arrived I wondered how it would be possible to live here and go to the beach so seldomly, but by the time Semana Santa rolled around I realized I hadn´t been to the beach since New Years Eve. I´m already like a local!


GETTING DOWN TO BUSINESS

I finally finished my first three-month project, a diagnostic assessment of the community, and presented it both to my community and the Peace Corps. It got amazing reviews! Viewers commented, “The best community diagnostic presentation I´ve ever seen in my life”, and “A smash...I´d sit through it again”. It produced some interesting results. I´m really glad they have the volunteers take the time to do this project because it helps us get a deeper understanding of the community and its needs, and gives us time to settle in and meet new people. Here I´m going to list some of the results which you might find most interesting, and some photos of me and Reylandi (also my project counterpart) presenting my diagnostic to the community and the Peace Corps:

I created a representation of the logo of my community organization to present my findings. My community organization is very organized, and has a detailed transcription of the significance of each color and shape in their logo. In my presentation I talked a bit about the meaning of each shape, and how it related to the theme of what I was presenting. That shape then folded out to a poster with information. Get it? There´s more photos below:

My town

Population: around 3,688 (not including people who work or study outside of the town)
Main sources of income: Agriculture (rice and coconut), and fishing

62% of the houses are made of cement block
16% of zinc (metal, like my tin roof)
15% of wood
7% of a combination of these materials

96% have electricity, 4% do not

45% of homes have a bathroom inside the house
3% have a toilet outside
32% use latrines (25% personal for one household, 7% share with other families)
20% do not have any time of sanitary facility (this is mainly the poorest neighborhood, located on the beach. Beachfront property is not the same here as it is in the States.)

11% of dominicans in my town do not have their birth certificates.
--With babies being born in the home (common) and other distractions, families often don´t get around to officially declaring their children. In the past this wasn´t such a big deal because people often didn´t leave their communities and just worked in manual labor. However, now there are a lot more restrictions for people who do not have their documentation. Kids can not continue school past the 8th grade, they can not apply for a formal job, marry legally, vote, open a bank account, get a drivers license – basically they do not exist in the eyes of the government. This system deprives people of opportunity and keeps them in the cycle of poverty. It can be a lengthy and costly process to obtain a late birth certificate, and for those whos parents also lack their birth certificates, it is practically impossible for them to obtain their own. One of my project plans is to start a campaign to help those who don´t have their birth certificates to obtain their documentation.

Many people speak of the problems of drugs and delinquency amongst the youth of the community, because there is not enough work or activities with which the youth can be involved. I have two main project plans in relation to youth:

1. To re-form a youth group which existed through my community organization and carry out activities to keep them busy, having fun, and learning about positive lifestyle choices. I´ll be taking some of the girls from the group to an all-girls camp this summer where they can learn about gender-related issues and share the knowledge with the community when they return.

2. The second is that I have joined with a group from the community who is starting a new sports league, and together we will form new teams of many different types of sports. Right now there are only softball and baseball teams, with one soccer team out of a nearby city. There is only one girls sports team of baseball, they play against the guys. I´ll help make sure that more girls teams are created, as well as volleyball and basketball teams, among others.
A lot of my time will also be spent helping my community organization raise funds to finish the construction of their new building. It has been on hold for a long time, and the stalled plans have been stalling their motivation, but once this building is complete they will have their own permanent location, a space for classes (English and computers – guess who they want to teach them?), and in general it will be a community center where community groups can have meetings, etc.

I´m also hoping to start some swimming lessons and dance classes. I realize that these things take more than just knowing how to do them to be able to teach them, so I´ve got some learning to do myself! Amazon.com, here I come.

So as you can see, I´ve got a lot on my plate, and have yet to start anything concrete. Though I´ve got plans and the ball is slowly starting to roll. I was starting to get stressed about being behind, but after meeting with the other volunteers I trained with it seems we´re all about on the same page, its all part of the Peace Corps process. I´ll keep on keepin´ on, I hope you all do too.

Until next time,
Joan

The Ozzy Ozborne Incident

We´ve all seen it before, one of VH1´s top 100 countdowns entitled, "Rock and Roll´s 100 Most Shocking Moments". I´m sure there have been a variety of compilations on the theme, but one "shocking" moment which always seems to make the top 10 is that of Ozzy Ozborne and the chicken. You know the one - a Black Sabbath concert in the 70´s, someone throws a chicken on the stage, Ozzy throws it back ("I ´idn´t know ´em birds cayn´t fly"), and the crowd tears it apart. PETA caused a big stink and he hasn´t lived it down since.

Well, I´ve got my own most shocking moment. I´m sure there will be more, but this one has got to make my top ten by the time I´m finished here.

This past weekend was Carneval. It was actually rescheduled from the prior weekend, but the night before Carneval was a beauty pageant, where they elect the girl who will be crowned the Queen of Patron Saints Day (later this month). About an hour into the show someone was killed outside of the club. I was there, I had no idea what was going on when people started rushing outside and leaving during the middle of the show. It turned out some kids were on drugs and one killed the other. Really sad, he was only 20 years old. I went to the funeral the next day which was a horribly powerful experience. The body stays in the home of the family and everyone comes to grieve, they are buried the day after they die. I´ve got to find a way to educate more about drugs in my community!

So, out of respect, the scheduled Carneval event was postponed to the following week. I had seen preparations for Carneval hanging up around the town for about two weeks before - these decorations being pig or cow intestines. People blow into the intestine and inflate it like a balloon, then hang it to dry. On the day of Carneval the mischevous ones run around smacking people with these intestine balloons. They can really hurt! Here is my friend Andres displaying one of these unique toys:
The celebration started with a parade from the school to the town park where there was a stage and sound system set up for the show. There were some fantastic masks, all hand made, which competed for the best costume award, along with choreographed dances. I feel like I learned a lot more about Dominican culture after this day, you can really feel the African roots by watching some of these dances. It even made Reggaeton make a little more sense. Here is a video of one of the dances: Here are some costumes and masks from the day:Each costume had time on the stage to display their artwork and let the judges get a good look. One man, seen pictured below, actually made an almost-life-sized mule. He dressed like a campesino (farmer, which he probably is anyway), with his legs positioned as the two hind legs of the mule so it looked like he was riding it. He had two baskets of fruit draped over the back of the mule, along with two live chickens. The man began tossing fruit into the crowd. Everyone got really excited and dove enthusiastically for each new piece of fruit. Here comes a mango! Now a platano! I started to get a little concerned as these fruits can be heavy and he was tossing them pretty hard. More mangos! Platano! Pineapple! Pineapple? Just when I thought I should be concerned about this, I look up toward the sky and see a chicken hurling through the air. No, he couldn´t! He did. He threw the chicken with all his might into the center of the crowd. I screamed. The chicken landed in about five different sets of hands, which all pulled in different directions. The chicken was literally torn apart, alive.

Half of the crowd started running away, the other half ran towards the scene. I stood stunned for a moment or two before I hurried over to lean against a wall and try to catch my breath. I saw a man I knew; he saw the terror in my face and commented, "Poor chicken". Poor chicken? To say the least! For the rest of the evening you could see a lone chicken wing and unidentifiable clumps of feathers rising up from one part of the crowd to the other. Needless to say the rest of the evening was shot for me, I felt nauseous and couldn´t really concentrate on the rest of the event. And after all that, the guy won best costume.

I spoke to another volunteer about this and she assured me that this is not a normal occurence. Gracias a Dios! So, that is my most shocking moment of Peace Corps DR thus far. More stories to come.

Joan